In recent weeks, numerous media sources have been commenting on the EU's assertion that American cheeses should not be called by the original European names. Several customers mentioned hearing about the story.
As is typical of 'news' stories of the current 'media saturated' age,
every source I searched seemed to be coming off the same AP story. But
it appears that U.S. cheesemakers are making an effort to fight back.
First, it is important to acknowledge that these attempts are not new, but have been made by those charged with protecting regional agriculture and local jobs in any country, especially in light of the development of the fiercely competitive global marketplace. Both sides claim to be protecting "rural _________(insert country name) economies and jobs."
European producers claim American producers have been trading on already popular brands. But Errico Auricchio, Belgioioso Cheese, Denmark, WI; and his American counterparts believe "American companies have made them more popular and profitable in a huge market."
Perhaps Americans don't have to "trade on the popularity of European cheeses" any longer, and are capable of developing enough market share to survive on their own in the marketplace. American made cheeses that have gained notoriety (through competitions and active endeavors from marketing boards) have found a manner where they can invite the knowledgeable cheese consumer to explore, define their own sense of identity, and win the customer over with a quality product.) Take Sartori's Bellevitano line of cheeses. Yes, they are 'parmesan style' cheeses, but the line is called Bellevitano and becoming know as such. And their aged parm is called Sarvecchio, for which they are also gaining brand recognition.
American cheesemakers are working to be identified in their own right, offering remarkable products, and setting up operations in states never before known for commercial cheesemaking. In the current arena of all things local, many consumers are becoming comfortable with the notion of a regionally if not locally produced cheese - and many cheesemakers are experimenting with all the types of cheese. While we may not replace Parmigiano Reggiano, we may find we can substitute something more available and equally flavor-full but with our own American identity! In essence, I don't need your ball, I have my own.
I say define the category type: Parmesan, Cheddar, Gruyere - and work instead to classify your product as the supreme leader of quality in the category.
ljw
