What's in a name? Will Gruyere by just as sweet?

Last week during one of our 'quick, read through everything on our kitchen island so we can recycle it all', my husband passed me the Country Today, a local agriculture based news publication here in Wisconsin. His eye was caught by a notice detailing the decision by Emmi to drop the name 'Gruyere' from it's very well-know cheese, Grand Cru Gruyere. Gruyere is one of those European 'protected name' status cheeses, and the company has gotten away with carrying the Gruyere name for so long, due in part to its ownership by the Swiss mother company known as Emmi, a company in the business of cheesemaking since 1863, begun by patron cheesemaker Oswald Roth. 'Curd forward' to the late 90's, when two Roth heirs, brothers Felix & Ulrich Roth, and compatriot Fermo Jaeckle found Roth Kase, and begin making the award winning line of Roth Kase cheeses, of which the Grand Cru Gruyere was one of the highest awarded over the years.

The act of enforcing name protection is to European cheesemakers, a very important part of their global marketing program. It has picked up even more activism in this time of economic downturn and eroding markets. Protect the brand first and foremost!

So here's my question to the cheese lovers of the world - does having the "name brand" recognition really ensure success? How do American farmstead cheesemakers compete with those long-standing brands of European cheese-making history? Do you make a cheese in the old standard? Do you strike out and do something completely original? I have my own opinion and it seems to match with our American cheesemakers talents for creating original American 'masterpieces'. While imitation is indeed the sincerest form of flattery after all, even if you cannot take the name directly. For example, Pleasant Ridge Reserve - a Wisconsin best-seller - is known as a French Beaufort style cheese, made by Uplands Cheese Company. It is beautiful to behold, truly inspiring to eat - and has a name that grew out of a land form in the region where the cheese is made. And, Bleu Mont Dairy's beautiful bandaged white cheddar is one of the best cheddar's I've had the opportunity to eat in a long time. Amazing strength of an aged cheddar, with a delightful creaminess and nutty texture.

So, America's artisan cheesemakers are practicing what their European mentors preached in one way - by plugging in and making their cheese with passion and attention to place - known in France as terroir. Unique cheeses with names like Humboldt Fog from Cypress Grove, or Hoja Santa goat cheese from the Mozzarella Company in Dallas, TX; or Crater Lake Blue from Rogue Creamery - all these cheeses and many more speak highly of American's pride in their own 'place'. You may still look for your Parmiggiano Reggiano when you go to the big city, but chances are, if you live in Wisconsin, you will find a flavorful and memorable substitute right here in America's Dairy State.